MMT Part One Surface Distortion

When starting my research, I suddenly became apparent to me that when I do my research I am very visual. I can imagine if I was able to attend an exhibition I would be drawn to certain piece, for its colour, size, or just its appeal.

As I was unable to attend exhibition, so I transferred this on the internet. Taking to google and trailing images as well as Pinterest to gather together a collection of images from artists who use fabric fabric distortion.  

Distortion meaning:

The act of twisting or altering something out of its true, natural, or original state.

I also began my research on Pinterest looking at images of fabric distortion  https://www.pinterest.co.uk/leanneharri/fabric-distortion/

Deepa Panchamia

Deepa Panchamia work involves sculptures, installations and wearable art. She uses natural and synthetic materials mainly keeping a natural colour palette, sometimes using up to 15 different shades of white. She chooses to work with   Using folding, pleating, cutting, layering and stitching, to create geometric shapes within her designs.

Deepa begins her designs by using her sketchbook and a mood board, as well as making notes and samples.  Her complex designs develop as she goes along. These designs usually take three to four months to complete.

The first piece that caught my eye was the piece below, it reminded me of the Elizabethan ruffs.

Deepa Panchamia uses a rich gold silk within the gathers, which highlights the gathers. I could see this piece being inspired by nature, it reminds me of the tide marks in the sand. 

https://www.textilecurator.com/home-default/home-2-2/deepa-panchamia/

Skysy detail (2007)

150 x 100 x 90 cms

nylon and metallic silk organza

I later found a zoomed out image of the piece above and had a completely different view of the piece. On a larger scale its still visually stunning, but I do feel more drawn to the more intercate details in the first image. I suppose that part of the beauty of the work, taking time to take in every inch and admire the delicate work. 

The artists choice of fabric creates soft gentle lines that ripple across the fabric like a wave. Not only creating folds but adding in angles to create a three dimensional sculpture. 




Ruth Singer

The next designer I chose to research was Ruth Singer. I have one of her books on fabric manipulation that I have referred back to many times on my textiles journey. I knew she was the author but had not looked any further into her work, so I was excited to see the pieces she creates. 

Ruth work is based on personal and emotive subjects or historical themes inspired by people. She experiments with traditional and contemporary textile techniques create unique thought provoking pieces. Her work is mainly created with old cloth, often damaged, torn and worn, to create hangings, quilts, small objects and installations. 

What interested me with Ruth’s work was her use of natural dye, using of plants collected from her local area, drinks and other natural items. This is an area that has interested me, in my previous work. 

I  was drawn towards Ruth’s work as my first experience of creating a textiles piece was a patchwork quilt. A quilt my nan had started, which I then finished. I can relate to her theory of the history encapsulated in a blanket. I love how she has taken the skeleton of the blanket showing the bare bones with the joining stitches showing the workmanship that went into the piece and still holding it together after all this time. 






The second piece of Ruth’s work was her collaboration with Bethany Walker. What interested me was the industrial cement combined with the soft textiles, making the textiles look like they were a beautiful flower growing out of the hard grey cement. Its an interesting concept mixing two materials at opposite ends of the scale, one hard and stark the other soft and beautiful.  





Iris Van Herpen

 

The next designer I chose to focus on was a fashion designer. I can across her work whilst searching for artists that use fabric distortion. Her fashion designs were wonderfully unique and intricate. Look into Iris Van Herpen she is widely heralded as one of fashion’s most forward-thinking designers. Her designs are based on nature, architecture, art, and dance. Focusing on the elements of water, air and earth and how the move and transform.


What interested me about Van Herpen's work was how futuristic it looked but also had the natural curves and waves to enhance the body form. Using a transparent 



The next piece that caught my was the piece below. Using thin strips of leather rippling around the shoulders and tors. It reminds me of a modern day Edwardian ruff, using the ripples at different angles to create an interesting structure around the body. I think keeping it in one colour enhances the fabric manipulation. Her work is definitely focused on eye catching, technical pieces for the catwalk.

Jule Waibel

Jule Waibel is a German designer is based in London and Berlin, making pleated patterns, and transforming structures. She wants to create a unique space where everything will be unfolded. She uses her own techniques to fold all types off material into wonderful garments, installations, and furnishings. Using geometric shapes and an array of colours to create her collections.

Although her paper dresses used for the shop window displays are visually stunning, they clearly lack practicality and are merely for display purposes. On the other had she makes practical items such as the stool in the image below. I wonder if the creases help to add strength the stool.


I was also amazed at how many items Waibel has added her unique style of creases from vases, couch, plates and then fashion items such as ties, lingerie, and clothing. I also noted what a difference colour makes, the vibrant tones on the paper dresses, using patterns the enhanced the folds in the crease adding to the pattern and design.



Grace Tan


Grace Tan began her practice in 2003 under the kwodrent series, exploring wearable fabric structures based on the study of rectangles and construction methods. Her wearable works then evolved into sculptural objects and site-specific installations, like the image below. 



Grace Tan also uses all manner of unconventional mediums such as stainless steel sheets to polypropylene loop pins, in her work. The work below is made from polypropylene loop pins. At first glance I was surprised as the material looks soft, and reminds me fluffy clouds. Its not until you zoom in that you can see thousands of the loop pins joined together to create the installation. What I like about it is that the artist has taken an item that it a rigid and hard and made it into something that looks soft and delicate.


The other piece of Tans work that I was drawn to was the piece below. The colour is very suttle on the fabric it almost looks like a natural dye. It minded me of the studies I have done with mushrooms, the pleating reminds me of the the gill part of the underneath of the mushroom. The natural curves within the piece also reminds me of a mushroom. The way that it is hung is very sympathetic to the curves and the flow of the piece.


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